Oct 28

It always amazes me during the Fall how articles come out talking about the grape harvest as a whole – quality, weather, people – and they tend to almost always focus on the ‘North Coast’. Napa, Sonoma, Russian River … I guess these are the only places that seem to matter?!?!?!? Read the rest of this entry »

Oct 26
Lucky Guy . . .
icon1 Larry | icon2 2009 Harvest | icon4 10 26th, 2009| icon3No Comments »

I’ve always been of the belief that you should love what you do for a living . . .or make some changes in your life. It’s a pretty simplistic concept, but one that I’ve always felt was worth living by.

I’ve got to tell you – I absolutely love what I do. Period. End of story. I come into work everyday as happy as can be – and feel privileged to do so. I’m fortunate to drive to work every day during harvest over a two lane road that runs through farm land – and offers not only terrific sunrise pictures each morning, but offers glimpses of coyotes, bobcats, cows and calves, horses and foils, and all other kinds of views as well. Absolutely stunning!

I get to work and am psyched to start my day. For example, I came in to work yesterday, my ‘off day’ at Fess Parker, to take care of some of our tercero fruit that came in on Saturday – syrah and greanche from Larner Vineyards in Los Olivos. The fruit was in impeccable shape upon arrival – great color and flavor, no raisins, no leaves – very little to do on the sorting table.

I decided to split the 2 tons of Grenache into 2 separate fermentation bins – with one, I destemmed the berries but left them mostly whole, choosing not to crush many of them. With the other bin, I decided to go 100% whole cluster – I did not destem any of the berries. I’m excited to be able to compare and contrast these two different bins and keep them separate hopefully for their entire ‘lives’, possibly blending them together at the last moment before bottling . . .or possibly creating two separate finished wines altogether.

One of the challenges with the whole cluster bin is that there was literally no juice in the box after all the clusters were dumped in – no berries had really broken and therefore it was necessary to do so. With a normal bin, I would simply stand on top of the bin and ‘punch it down’ with a metal punch down tool. But with whole clusters, this simply does not work – you cannot move beyond the very top.

Therefore, it’s necessary to go ‘I Love Lucy’ on the bin and get in and foot stomp. It is certainly tougher than it may seem – but it is very, very fun as well! I did this for about 30 minutes on Saturday afternoon before leaving work and then again for another 30 minutes or so yesterday . . .at 7 am on a Sunday. And guess what – I loved it! I was tired, it was my ‘day off’, but it was necessary to do this . . .and it was so cool to do so!

Now it’s early Monday morning and I have to get a few hours of sleep before going in and getting back to work . . .and I can’t wait! I hope all of you feel this way about what you do as well!!!!

Cheers!

Oct 14

As I type this latest edition to my blog, it’s raining outside – not cats and dogs, just slightly sprinkling. That said, even the slightest precipitation can seem like a torrential down pour, and quite detrimental, to some . . .

Just as oxygen is a wine’s enemy during aging (for the most part), rain is a grape’s potential enemy during harvest. Depending upon timing, rain can be a good thing during the growing season – vines need water for growth, and most will either get it via irrigation or rainfall.

That said, rain is NOT a good thing during the harvesting season. Rain can lead to mold on the grapes, and is especially detrimental to white varieties (thinner skins) as well as thin skinned reds. It can also be very detrimental to varieties that have very tight clusters, and to those plants that are holding a lot of crop.

I am fortunate this year –at least I hope I am (-: I have already brought in all of my white varieties (Grenache Blanc and Gewurztraminer) as well as the first of my red lots (Camp 4 Grenache and round 1 of Larner Syrah). My whites are pretty much finished fermenting and the two red lots are currently cold soaking, waiting to be inoculated next week.

All other grapes I have still hanging are going to be okay I believe. Though it is raining, we are expecting high 80 degree temperatures immediately following the rain, which is certainly a good thing. In addition, the rain has been accompanied by a decent amount of wind, which helps minimize water accumulation on and around the clusters, diminishing the chance of mold/rot buildup. And the national weather service is calling for continued warm temperatures, and no more rain, for the foreseeable future. And since the rain has not been too heavy, the water will hopefully help vitalize the vines and give them a little more ‘steam’ to keep rolling along – and keep my grapes maturing for the next few weeks!

What does this mean? What is the bottom line here? Only Mother Nature knows for sure . . . but it appears that harvest here at tercero will continue well through October and into November – and even possibly beyond Thanksgiving (and Christie’s birthday . . .) . . .

Cheers!

Sep 28

Brix is a measure of sugar levels in grapes in the wine industry. It roughly translates as follows: a grape sample showing a reading of 20 brix means that that sample has approximately 200 grams of sugar per liter of solution . . .or almost 2 lbs. of sugar per gallon! Yikes! It also means that should you ferment this wine to dryness without any ‘manipulation’, the subsequent wine would have an alcohol level of between 11 and 12 percent.

Many in the wine industry use this as the main determining factor for when to pick grapes. It used to be ‘back in the day’ that many grapes were picked at 22-23 brix so that the finished wine would be in the 12.5 -13.5 alcohol range . . .and there are some that still feel this is the ‘ideal’ area to pick in.

This measurement, as I’ve spoken about before, is simply one of many factors to help determine when to pick. More importantly, this measurement is heavily influenced by weather patterns, watering patterns in the vineyard, crop loads, and a few other variables.

There are some varieties that simply do not ‘come into their own’ until their sugar levels rise to much higher levels. Grenache, my favorite variety, is a prime example. Here are a few reasons for this:

* Grenache clusters are relatively large compared with other varieties, and in order to get complete ripening of the entire cluster, it is necessary to hang them out longer

* Grenache skins are very thick and tannin-filled; if picked too early, the resultant juice and wine will end up being less than stellar – thinner in body, full of tannin, and lacking the beautiful fruit character that draws me to these grapes

* The grapes simply do not produce ‘a harmonic balance’ in the subsequent juice until they are much riper than other varieties – this comes from tasting and tasting and tasting – you just KNOW when it’s time to pick them . . .and it tends to be at higher brix.

What does this all mean? I’m not really sure I know . . . I just felt like sharing this information this morning!

Cheers!!!

Sep 17

When I was growing up, whenever my mom would make a special turkey dinner, she would always insert a temperature ‘doo dad’ that would ‘pop up’ when the turkey was done (or when the turkey hit a certain temperature, I’m assuming). Therefore, it was ‘easy’ to tell when it was done . . .

Life is not so easy when it comes to determining when is the right time to pick wine grapes. There are many many factors that need to be brought into the discussion to help make the right decision:

* The chemistry of the grapes themselves (sugar, acid and pH levels)
* The physiology of the grapes (skin, seeds, stems) and the plant itself
* At what levels things were picked in previous years and if you want to try to mimic these numbers or not
* Crop loads (to determine how things might change in the coming days)
* Weather patterns for the coming days / weeks
* Availability of picking crews
* Availability of tank space

And these are just a handful of the variables that winemakers must take into account each and every harvest, and with each and every picking decision. Note also that many of these are subjective ta boot – for instance, one winemaker’s target sugar level will most likely be higher or lower than another winemaker. And that time is now upon me in a couple of ways:

* As Assistant Winemaker for Fess Parker Winery and Epiphany Cellars, our sister label, I am intimately involved in tracking the progress of our grapes during the harvest season and help plan out picking dates with the rest of our winemaking team

* As co-owner and Winemaker for tercero wines, the picking decisions fall solely upon my shoulders (with the caveat of those things that are NOT entirely in my control as outlined above).

I sampled three vineyards that tercero purchases fruit from late yesterday to look at the progress of the grapes / vines and assess when I might want to bring the fruit in. In the case of syrah from the Thompson Vineyard and Grenache from the Watch Hill Vineyard, no decision has to be made now for the grapes are very far off from being picked – a minimum of two weeks and perhaps up to 6 in the case of the Grenache.

The gewurztraminer that we purchase from another vineyard in the Los Alamos area, though, was showing signs that it was just about ready. The grapes tasted sweet, but not quite the sweetness level I am after. They had a nice floral and spicy characteristic that I look for in the variety, and the skins had already changed colors to the pink/grey hue that this variety gets. I checked weather patterns, and it appears that it will be hitting the mid-80’s over the next few days where these grapes are from. I ran chemistries and they pointed to grapes that were nearly ready . . . for me.

I therefore made the call this afternoon to pick the grapes on Friday morning. Was it the ‘right’ call? I won’t know for sure until the grapes arrive and I get them pressed and into tank . . .and then again I may still not know for many months after that . . .

Should there be a ‘pop up doo dad’ that tells us when the grapes are ready? It would make life a little easier, but it would steal the ‘romance’ and ‘art’ that goes into this very important decision making process!

Cheers!

Related Posts with Thumbnails

Follow tercero wines

tercero wines on Twitter tercero wines Rss Feed tercero wines on Facebook
More Subscription Options

Categories

Recent Posts

tercero wines on Facebook

Search Blog